When you slip on a buttery-smooth gold vermeil necklace or feel the reassuring weight of a vermeil signet, you’re experiencing the final chapter of a much longer story—one that begins long before a piece reaches your jewelry box. At ÉMILLIE ANNE, every design moves through a tightly choreographed series of creative and technical stages inside the brand’s New York City studio. Today we’re lifting the curtain on that journey to show how art, engineering, and a love of heirloom quality collide to create wearable sculpture.

1. Inspiration & Sketch: where stories take shape

Each collection starts with a moment of inspiration—often an animal whose symbolism resonates with modern strength. Creative director Emily Unkles translates those ideas into swift pencil sketches: the unfurling feathers that would become the Eagle Necklace, or the proud profile eventually carved into the Horse Necklace. The goal is to capture emotion first and refine proportion later, ensuring every ÉMILLIE ANNE piece conveys confidence before a single gram of metal is cast.

2. Digital sculpting & CAD precision

Next, the hand-drawn concept is rebuilt inside 3-D CAD software. This stage allows microscopic tweaks—sharpening the mane of the Lion Necklace so every ridge catches light, or hollowing the back of the Elephant Necklace just enough to balance comfort with luxe weight. CAD files also lock in the exact dimensions required for legal gold vermeil status once plating is applied.

3. Wax printing & the art of lost-wax casting

From the CAD file, a high-resolution wax model is 3-D printed. These waxes are tree-mounted, invested in plaster, and burned away in a kiln—leaving precise cavities. Molten recycled sterling silver, the official base of all ÉMILLIE ANNE pieces, is then gravity-cast to create rough “white” metal masters. This traditional lost-wax casting method guarantees crisp detail, allowing the curled wingtips of the Eagle or the delicate wrinkle lines of the Elephant to survive future polishing.

4. Filing, pre-polish & gemstone setting

Silversmiths clean each casting by hand, removing sprues and smoothing surfaces. Tiny eyes are drilled to seat ethically sourced diamonds—seen in the Eagle and Lion collections—before stones are pressure-set. A pre-polish brings the sterling silver to a mirror finish; a flawless canvas is essential because the upcoming gold layer will highlight, not hide, any imperfection. 

5. The vermeil moment: 2.5 + microns of 14 k gold

Here is where gold vermeil jewelry differs from standard fashion plating. Pieces undergo an ultrasonic clean, then a flash coat that improves adhesion. Finally, they are submerged in a warm bath of 14 k gold until at least 2.5 microns of precious metal bonds permanently to the silver core—over five times thicker than ordinary plating and the legal requirement for the “vermeil” designation in the U.S.

This generous thickness delivers the rich, buttery color you expect from solid gold, while the sterling base keeps pricing in the realm of affordable luxury jewelry. It also means owners can confidently wear an ÉMILLIE ANNE bracelet to brunch, the boardroom, or the beach without worrying about rapid fade.

6. Hand-polish & quality control

After plating, artisans re-polish every surface, protecting crisp edges while coaxing out a glass-like gleam. Clasps are tension-tested; chains are tugged; prongs are inspected under 10× magnification. Only pieces that pass this rigorous check earn the tiny “925” + “VN” hallmark hidden on the reverse—proof of solid sterling under that thick veil of gold.

7. Conscious finishing touches

Sustainability isn’t an afterthought. ÉMILLIE ANNE recycles water from its plating baths, and all polishing dust is collected and refined so not a speck of gold is wasted. Each design is packaged in FSC-certified boxes lined with organic cotton, ready for gifting or safe storage.

Why gold vermeil is the sweet spot

• Hypoallergenic: Sterling silver and 14 k gold are naturally nickel-free.
• Tarnish-resistant: Thick gold shields the silver core from sulfur in the air.
• Investment-level finish: At 2.5 microns, your Lion Ring or Eagle Bracelet can be re-polished for decades of shine.
• Attainable: You enjoy the same luster as 18 k solid gold at a fraction of the price, freeing budget to build a personal menagerie of meaningful symbols.

Real-world examples from the studio

Carry the story with you

Gold vermeil jewelry marries the romance of fine gold with the practicality of sterling silver—a perfect match for modern wardrobes that demand both beauty and versatility. When you clasp the Eagle Necklace around your neck or stack the Horse Necklace over a silk blouse, you’re not just adding an accessory. You’re wearing hours of sketching, sculpting, hand-filing, and mindful plating—all executed in a single New York studio.

Curious to see these creations in action? Browse the full menagerie of ÉMILLIE ANNE gold vermeil necklaces, rings, bracelets, and earrings—each one a small sculpture waiting to write its next chapter with you.